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Архіви Форумів Майдану

Сталінізм на підйомі - навіть в моді

10/27/2006 | Хома Брут
Ось фрагмент інтерв"ю з власницею модного магазину в Києві. Навіть просунуті власники модних магазинів є серйозними сталіністами. І може у час, вільний від hout couture, вони борються зі святом Покрови...

Ukrainian Style: Interview with fashion store owner Angel
Oct 19 2006 by Elisabeth Sewall, Assistant Editor
Guide: How would you describe your recent collection shown during Ukrainian Fashion Week? Where did you get the inspiration for it?
(Що Ви можете сказти про свою останню колекцію, що експонувалася під час тижня української моди? Що надихає Вашу фантазію?)
Angel: I had an inspirational moment. I was thinking about this spring collection and I remembered my childhood. The biggest event of my childhood was the May 1 celebration. The show was in the style of the Stalinist Era in Moscow during the 30s, described in my grandma's stories. It was the time of her youth, when she wore beautiful clothes.
(Натхнення було. Під час обдумаування весняної колекції я згадала своє дитинство. Найбільшою подією його було святкування 1-го травня. Моя колекція витримана в стилі Москви сталінської ери 30-х років, про яку мені оповідала бабуся. Це був час її молодості, коли вона носила чудовий одяг.)

Цікаво: як би наші борці сприйняли висловлення якогось модельєра про "відтворення атмосфери гітлерівського Берліну 30-х років, коли бабуся носила чудовий одяг"?

Відповіді

  • 2006.10.27 | Роман Сербин

    Чи можна б мати лінк до оригіналу статті англійською мовою? (-)

    згорнути/розгорнути гілку відповідей
    • 2006.10.27 | Хома Брут

      Re: лінк

      Стаття була в Myroslava's E-Poshta без посилання на джерело. Нижче номер е-Пошти та стаття повністю. Я би довіряв е-Пошті, що статтю вони дійсно звідкісь передрукували. А може то їх власна?

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Myroslava_e-poshta-canadaus/

      Myroslava's E-poshta.
      October 25, 2006
      Vol.7 No.73

      Ukrainian Style: Interview with fashion store owner Angel

      Oct 19 2006

      by Elisabeth Sewall, Assistant Editor
      © Konstantin Klimenko
      Ukrainian designer store Shkaf and its creator Angel offer everything you need to dress true Ukrainian-style.

      Ukrainian fashion isn't just about embroidered shirts and folk garb, as the tony runway shows and fashionable fetes of Ukrainian Fashion Week attested. With over 37 designers participating in the events and collections from Ukraine's most well-established labels presented, fashion week in Kyiv was an ambitious, well-organized production. Young designers, like Andre Tan, are making names for themselves, while more established designers like Irina Karavay, with her label NOTA BENE & KARAVAY, continue to build international recognition.

      Ukrainian fashion is still a nascent industry, if it can even be called as such, but the profession is undoubtedly developing here, with designers slowly finding ways of selling their creations in the Ukrainian and international market. To learn more about Ukrainian fashion I interviewed Angel, the head of Angel Studios and a participant in Ukrainian Fashion Week. As an experienced veteran of the design scene and creator of the stylish, recently-opened Ukrainian designer boutique Shkaf, Angel is a knowledgeable Ukrainian fashion insider. For a newcomer to Ukrainian fashion, such as myself, Angel's answers shed light on Ukrainian designers and the state of fashion in Kyiv.

      Guide: When did you start working in the fashion industry?

      Angel: I started 10 years ago. I had a great desire to become a designer and to create clothes. I started designing wedding dresses and became head of a bridal store. I worked in wedding fashion for a long time. I stepped away, but now I'm going back to wedding design.

      Guide: How would you describe your recent collection shown during Ukrainian Fashion Week? Where did you get the inspiration for it?

      Angel: I had an inspirational moment. I was thinking about this spring collection and I remembered my childhood. The biggest event of my childhood was the May 1 celebration. The show was in the style of the Stalinist Era in Moscow during the 30s, described in my grandma's stories. It was the time of her youth, when she wore beautiful clothes.

      Guide: How would you describe the current state of the Ukrainian fashion industry?

      Angel: There is no industry at all. It is just being born, just beginning. But among what is arising you can already see good professionals. For example HDG-group -- a group of young educated designers who work from their own experience as well as the heritage of their parents, who also devoted their lives to fashion earlier. But unfortunately I must say that there is no fashion industry as such.

      Guide: How would you describe Ukrainian fashion? Does it have any characteristic features? Where does it get its inspiration?

      Angel: Many designers use a lot of hand embroidery -- many labor-intensive elements. It's good when they manage to hit the mark, but it's not always fashionable. Sometimes this ethnicity is really hot, but when minimalism or grunge are in fashion all these embroideries look like decorative art and handicraft lessons, not design. You shouldn't mistake fashion for handicraft. Unfortunately, Ukrainian fashion is too decorative. That is why it is not industrial. This style is difficult to manufacture. Everyone considers embroidery to be design, but design is more about form, shape and concept. Besides being decorative, Ukrainian fashion is very bright, light and positive. Ukrainians are a southern people. When you wear this clothing it changes your mood and your day. This refers to almost each Ukrainian designer. Our fashion is more emotional than intellectual. It's good.

      Guide: How did you begin the Angel Studio?

      Angel: It began 10 years ago -- as a small enterprise making wedding dresses. Then staff and equipment changed in order to make a pret-a-porte. Angel Studio is a school for sewn art. I educate people here, even if they are already skilled. I do research and analyze fashion. I always know what to teach people who come, even if they are already talented and experienced. My staff is not made up of technical workers; I develop people intellectually. We attend other designer's shows, I force them to analyze and compare. We also attend many boutiques of Western companies in order to know Western tendencies, what the quality of Western clothes is and how much it costs. Tailors have to develop all the time.

      Guide: How did you get the idea for Shkaf?

      Angel: It began when I saw the space. I really liked it. It was very small and comfortable. The location was really great! The place dated back to my childhood. I was going to sell the accessories from Angel studio here -- but as it turned out we didn't have time -- we were busy preparing our collection [for Ukrainian Fashion Week http://www.fashionweek.com.ua]. So I decided to help other Ukrainian designers. I suggested they sell clothes in this store. Selling is the biggest problem for Ukrainian fashion! I spent a lot of time thinking about what the theme of this small store should be. It's so small! Then I thought that it resembles my closet at home, and so the name Shkaf was born. It became popular just after opening. It didn't need advertisement. People found it without any PR. The process of finding the location emphasizes our customers' interest. The idea itself became a good marketing step.

      Shkaf

      This appropriately-named store, located on Prorizna street just off Khreshchatyk, is quite literally as big as a closet, with shelves full of clothes and accessories. As you are walking down Prorizna be sure to keep your eyes peeled -- there is no sign to mark the unassuming clothing store, located in a tiny space that used to be used as a ticket casa. However, don't let its size deceive you--the shop is full of eclectic, original clothing and accessories, created by some of Ukraine's most talented fashion designers. Designer's represented include Andre Tan, Natasha Glazkova, Fedor Vozyanov, Katya Revenko, Nastya Salova, Oleksandr Ocheretniy, Olena Dats, Marta Holod and Nataliya Gavrylina, and labels X?U, TATA-NAKA, B!RYUKOV and C.I.I and MIR.

      Nasha

      Nasha, which literally means "Ours" in Ukrainian and Russian, is a store for Ukrainian designer clothing. It is like Shkaf, only bigger and representing different designers. There are two locations in Kyiv, conveniently located in major shopping centers.

      Sezony Mody

      Translated to mean "Fashion Seasons," this showroom host the collections of Ukraine's leading designers and trademarks. NB Poustovit, Nota Bene & Karavay, Victor Anisimov, Oksana Karavanska, Tetyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbit, Kristina Gusina, Oleksiy Zalevskiy, Anna Bublik, among others.

      Shkaf (9 Prorizna)

      Nasha (72 Chervonoarmiyska, "Olimpiyskiy" shopping center, 3rd floor; 11 Moskovskiy Prospect, Alta Center, 2nd floor).

      Sezony Mody Showroom (38A Horkoho)


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